However, running can motors on pulse power is normally quite safe unless you are running long trains or have drive train binding where the can motor is being pushed to near its current limit (usually about. To be really safe, I recommend using the Throttle Pack on older motors, and the newer power packs to run the can motors. Newer power packs (like Tech II and later) perform direct voltage control and regulation instead of using a rheostat to dump voltage. Also, the can motors, coupled with a decent gear system, can generally run at very slow speeds without the assistance of pulse power. The newer can motors are much less tolerant of this extra heat than the older open frame motors. Our motors are generally unable to cool much between the power spikes so the result is somewhat higher temps running on pulse power. The extra heat from pulse power comes from running higher instaneous voltages and currents because the power is compressed into a shorter time span. 1 amp times 40 ohms) so that you do have reasonable control of the can motor with pulse power on. The effective voltage is reduced (not in half because of windings in the motor, but reasonably close) so that the rheostat only has to drop approximately 4 volts to run the can motor at 3 volts. Hence, the lack of slow speed control.Īs an earlier poster pointed out, the pulse power switch takes out every other pulse - the old power packs put out a rectified 60 Hertz AC, not pure DC. Since it doesn't have 90 ohms, the minute you move the control off "stop" you are giving 7 volts to the track, dropping 5 in the rheostat (5=.1 times 50). 1 amp at slow speed, then to get 3 volts at the track (typical starting voltage), the rheostat needs to drop 9 volts which at. Typically rheostats had a maximum of 50 ohms (at the slowest speed position). 4 amps gives 20 ohms to be added in series with the motor. The rheostat needs to drop 8 volts (12-8=4) with a current of. 4 amps as an example, and say you wanted 4 volts at the track to run your train slowly. The old open frame motors typically used. The fomula is voltage = resistance times current. To put it simply however, if you're unsure what to choose when buying a racket you like, either go for the “Original Strings” option or “Stringers Professional Decision” for which we'll choose the string that best suits getting the maximum performance out of the racket for you.The problem with the Throttlepack and other rheostat (resistance) based control systems is that the newer can motors don't draw enough current for the rheostat to work properly. However do look out for racket tension ranges on the product as this could potentially limit your ability to have the racket strung at a desired tension.įor a full breakdown on strings and tensions, see our buying guide specifically on this. Typically singles players will use heavier rackets 3U (85-89g), this provides the player with more stability and accuracy, with a little more weight for power behind it, without compromising on racket speed too much, as quick racket head speed isn't needed as much in the singles game.ĭoubles players however will usually want lighter rackets, the most popular weight for this being 4U (80-84g), this is because the Badminton Racket will offer more speed and quicker reactions in around the net and for defence against smashes.Īgain like the grip, this is customisable on any racket. Most rackets are weighted around 3U (85-89g) or 4U (80-84g), this is because it's a good weight balance for players to hit hard and also be able to react fast too. However too heavy a racket and you'll find you'll be reacting too slow in fast flat rallies, where reaction speed is everything. Too light a racket and it won't go far or powerful enough. Weight can make a real difference to reaction speeds, and power behind the hit of a shuttle. If you're still unsure what to choose for yourself, we'd recommend going for a medium flex badminton racket to minimise the chances of choosing incorrectly what's right for you. Player with Slower Backswing Hitting = More Flexible Shaft needed so that it'll unload fully at impact Player with Explosive Backswing Hitting = Stiffer Shaft needed as it'll unload faster for more power Control and Touch, by moving players around the court to create spaceĪs a general guide for your playing style below is the kind of racket you'll want to look at purchasing:.The key question to ask firstly is what style of player are you, or what type of player do you want to become?
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